This Victorian ice cream recipe comes from Agnes Marshall, sometimes known as the “Queen of Cream” for her contributions to ice cream. In addition to publishing books of recipes, Agnes Marshall ran a cooking school, edited a weekly magazine, marketed and sold foodstuffs and kitchenware, and even designed some of her own equipment such as ice cream freezers.

Plum Cream Ice:

• 2 pounds plums
• 1/2 pint water (284 ml)
• 1/2 pound sugar
• red food coloring
• 1/2 pint puree (284 ml)
• 1 pint cream (568 ml)
• 1/4 pound sugar
• 1/4 tsp almond extract

Note on measurements: Since Agnes Marshall’s book was published in England, I assumed she was using Imperial pints (568 ml) instead of American pints (473 ml). Since my grocery store only sells cream in American pints, I added milk to make up the rest.

1. Quarter the plums and remove the pits. Put in a saucepan with the water and 1/2 pound sugar. Cook over low heat until the plums have broken down and are soft, about 20-30 minutes.
2. Blend the mixture in a blender or food processor until completely smooth, then pass through a sieve.
3. Take 284 ml of the plum puree and mix it together with the cream, 1/4 pound sugar, and almond extract. Stir in red food coloring until the mixture is a dark pink color. Chill in the refrigerator for several hours until completely cold.
4. Freeze in a 1.5 quart ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
5. Pack the ice cream in a container and place in the freezer until firm.
6. If desired, you can use the extra plum puree as a sauce to serve with the ice cream.

Tasting notes:

This is a really lovely ice cream, perfect for using ripe plums in summer. The hint of almond flavor works perfectly with the plums. The recipe makes plenty of extra plum puree, so you can either use that as a sauce or use it to make multiple batches of ice cream. If all of Agnes Marshall’s recipes turn out as beautifully flavored and textured as this, I can definitely see why she was called the “Queen of Cream”!

References:

Marshall, A.B. (1885). The book of ices. London: Marshall’s School of Cookery. https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Book_of_Ices/qmYDAAAAQAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=0

Snodgrass, M.E. (2013). Marshall, Agnes (1855–1905). In M.E. Snodgrass, World food: An encyclopedia of history, culture, and social influence from hunter-gatherers to the age of globalization. Armonk, NY: Sharpe Reference.